Japanese Vogue goes otaku... Sort of

15.06.2009 by Patrick W. Galbraith

We all knew that models wanted to be dolls, but "Vogue" magazine in Japan has made it official in this month's issue. Under the banner "Manga x Mode," the editors of the magazine gush about how women the world over want to have bodies like anime characters and "become figures."

This revelation comes courtesy of Anna Dello Russo, the “fashion director at large.” At a 2008 meeting in Tokyo to decide the next year's fashion themes, she apparently screamed, "Manga!" To her, this means a tight waist, accentuated chest and hips, doll clothing such as puffy skirts, ribbons and frills, and super high heels to make long legs.

The intro to the issue says, "The designers and creators who come to Japan are seriously crazy about the 'otaku culture' that manga represents. Akihabara is a fantasy destination on par with Kyoto."

European fashion is all about being an adult, and it's a drag.

"The value of being an adult is based on following social rules. Perhaps 'kawaii' and 'manga' releases the joy of going against the rules. Things that aren't real are often called manga-like. Manga has the power to overcome reality and we borrow from that."

Kawaii and sexy must be taken to an "unrealistic level." Manga is mode, and the keyword for foreigner fashionistas outside Japan.

As you flip through the pages, titles such as "Le Manga, C'est Magnifique" are accompanied by tags like "Let's become pretty dress up dolls!"

Murakami Takashi, introduced as the "prophet of otaku culture," replies to this, "What is manga about this?" He apparently argued that otaku respond to certain attributes such as maids and uniforms, which is different from fashion. The "Vogue" editors shot back that mode has its own share of fantasy themes that challenge reality. For example, little princess magical princess, female bondage warrior and "robot like mobile suit shojo" (I hadn't heard of that one...). If it is 100 percent attributes, then it becomes cosplay, but fashion plays with the attributes (OK, not getting the difference...). As the editors see it, fashion is about becoming "like something" that is different from us (sounds like cosplay to me...).

They admit that otaku will disagree, but say to hell with them and go for the Manga x Mode. "Japan is the only 'Vogue' in the world that can do this."

In the hideous fashion show that ensues, "The Rose of Versailles" inspires princess style, "Yatterman" S&M, "Urusei Yatsura" alien and "Pretty Cure" schoolgirl chic.



In the even worse “cosplay” section, Dello Russo dresses up as a poor Miss Ko2. Others do Minnie Mouse, Captain Harlock and a supremely uncute cat "inspired" by the fetishism of Chi from "Chobits."

























CLAMP, Hagio Moto, Monkey Punch and others draw famous designers and fashion folk as manga. Ikeda Riyoko of "The Rose of Versailles" fame draws a mini-manga of Dello Russo.



The highlight is a debate between Murakami, Morikawa Kaichiro, yaoi researcher Kaneda Junko and former Gainax PR representative Kawahara Kazuko. Murakami thinks manga mode is ridiculous. Kawahara says manga is escapism. Morikawa tries to keep the peace and says Lolita is a style so no one asks why the faces look so young. Kaneda and Kawahara suggest that the manga image is nice breasts, zettai ryouiki, ahoge and twin tails.




Basically, it's a train wreck. But the ever wise and diplomatic Morikawa sums up nicely. "The fashion world doesn't necessarily need to understand otaku properly. Rather, it is because of misunderstanding or discommunication that artists birth creative works."

As a follow up, Murakami will apparently be participating in the "Vogue" 10th anniversary shop in Aoyama. The first floor has Miss Ko2 shirts, and the second floor is a gallery curetted by Murakami.